Many cosmetics, including lotions, makeup, masks, and at-home skin care treatments, advertise to contain peptides or growth factors to prevent aging and make skin look younger and healthier. Generally, cosmetics are not prohibited in sport. However, some cosmetic products advertise to contain growth factors, and certain peptide growth factors are prohibited at all times, even when applied topically via a lotion, cream, or cosmetic product. Continue reading to better understand the prohibited status of peptide growth factors in cosmetics and facial treatments.
What are peptides?
Peptides are short proteins made up of amino acids. The body naturally produces many peptides that regulate various biological processes, like blood sugar, growth, and tissue repair. Peptides can also be synthesized in laboratories, and some are used in medicines to treat specific health conditions. Some peptides are prohibited in sport, and can be found in cosmetics or topical products, or be used in facial treatments in beauty or med spas.
Are the peptides used in cosmetics, facials, or other beauty treatments banned?
Some of the peptides used in cosmetics, facials, and other beauty treatments are prohibited in sport, but many are not. Currently, USADA is aware of five peptides (listed below) that are expressly prohibited by WADA, even when used in topical preparations such as cosmetics. Keep in mind that there could be additional peptides that are prohibited as well. If in doubt, please check GlobalDRO.com or contact the USADA Drug Reference Department.
Aren’t topical peptides used on the skin permitted since they don’t get into your body?
Prohibited peptides that are applied on the skin are still problematic and prohibited because many cosmetics have shown the ability to penetrate deep layers of the skin. Secondly, some facial treatments (like vampire facials) deliver serums into the capillary layer (blood stream) of the skin, which creates the possibility for systemic circulation of prohibited substances.
Importantly, the WADA Prohibited List does not currently have route-dependent anti-doping statuses attached to peptides and growth factors. In other words, topical use of a growth factor or peptide is just as prohibited as injectable or oral forms. WADA has posted a clarification of this issue on their FAQ page under the title “Are peptides and growth factors in cosmetic products prohibited?” According to WADA, even if the amount of growth factors in most cosmetics is likely to be small, there is no threshold level of “allowable use” and there is no guarantee that they won’t cause a positive anti-doping test. As such, the use of topical products cannot be invoked as justification for a positive test.
Until further notice, athletes should avoid cosmetics that claim to contain any of the following cosmetic ingredients:
| Growth Factor | Ingredient Name in Cosmetics |
| IGF-1 | rh-Oligopeptide-2, sh-Oligopeptide-2 |
| Acidic Fibroblast Growth Factor | rh-Polypeptide-11, sh-Polypeptide-11 |
| Basic Fibroblast Growth Factor | rh-Polypeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-1 |
| Platelet Derived Growth Factor | rh-Polypeptide-8, sh-Polypeptide-8 |
| Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor A | rh-Polypeptide-9, sh-Polypeptide-9 |
My cosmetic lists a lot of peptide ingredients. Does that mean it’s prohibited?
Not necessarily. Many peptides are not prohibited, as WADA only prohibits peptides that are, or have the potential to be, performance enhancing. The peptides that are commonly in cosmetics that are prohibited are listed above.
The following examples of peptide ingredients commonly seen on product labels are NOT PROHIBITED, even though they include the word “peptide”:
- Hexapeptide-38
- Hexapeptide-5
- Nonapeptide-1
- Octapeptide-45
- Oligopeptide
- Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
- Palmitoyl pentapeptide‑4 / ‑3
- Palmitoyl tetrapeptide‑7
- Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
- Palmitoyl tripeptide‑38
- Pentapeptide‑18
- Pentapeptide-48
- Royalactin
- Tridecapeptide-1
- Tripeptide‑1 (GHK, non‑palmitoylated)
Can I get a Therapeutic Use Exemption (TUE) for cosmetics containing peptides?
A prescription topical cream may qualify for a TUE if it is used to treat a legitimate medical condition under the care of a physician. But a purely cosmetic beauty product used for skin care is not likely to qualify for a TUE.
Before starting a new medication or treatment, always check the prohibited status on GlobalDRO.com. If your medication is prohibited, then you might need to apply for a TUE. Athletes should complete the TUE Pre-Check Form to confirm whether they need a TUE before applying.
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More questions?
For questions about specific products, substances, and methods, contact USADA’s Drug Reference Line at DrugReference@USADA.org or call (719) 785-2000, option 2.
